Monday 10 March 2025
Checking out of the Miner's Cottage is a bit of
a cleanup and simply drive off. We head to our one night at Fox Glacier. It’s
another brilliant sunny autumn day with blue sky and sunshine. This time we are
again on a farm but in a shepherd’s cottage. One room with comfy bed and
kitchenette and attached ensuite, all set in a beautiful garden. Sky here is
overcast with clouds sitting on top of the mountains for a change.
A walk into town to suss out the food options is confronting, as the cafes and well, there all cafes and all have simple food at exorbitant prices! God damn, NZ is very expensive. Steam is coming out of Flashy’s ears at the price of a simple pizza at $39 and a chicken pasta at $42.
Now here’s some perspective. Grossi Florentino Grill, a
restaurant some of you may have heard of and the rest of the world thinks is
pretty special, has pasta and mains around this price. A friggin café in Fox
Glacier! Well, they tell me it’s like this all over NZ, $13 for garlic bread
and $14 for a bowl of chips. Well, as Baldrick says, ‘I have a cunning plan.’
We buy a wonderful
cold smoked, manuka honey glazed fillet of NZ salmon at the local 4 Square
supermarket for $15 and make a stunning salad in our cabin. Have two gins and a
glass or two of Pinot Noir and give the big finger to the cafés.
Tuesday 11 March 2025
Our shepherd’s cabin
comes with breakfast. Flashy decides it’s best to eat all they have left for us.
However, he is stopped after the stewed apricots, muesli, cornflakes, yoghurt,
tea, coffee and can’t quite face the eggs and toast. Should have pinched the
biscuits, shampoo and soap!
A really great overnight
stop. Now we are off on the trek across the mountains to Wanaka. But first, in
the now famous west coast rain, Lady P decides we should drive half an hour
down to Jacksons Bay to the famous
caravan on the beach seafood place called the Cray Pot. As we roll into the
little wharf, Flashy askes if perhaps we should have booked.
They were full and a
line up out the door. Nonetheless, in true Kiwi fashion, the owner, in shorts
of course, says ‘just wait in the car and I’ll come and get you. You’re second
in line and this mob will be done soon.’
Well, spank my arse
and call me Cindy! He knocks on the car window in 10 minutes and we are in the
little space of the van, ordering Blue Cod and Lobster. All come with heaps of
chips and a wonderful salad. More expensive than Grossi’s. But hey, we wanted
NZ seafood and we got it. Good. Not brilliant. Expensive. But it was a load of
fun (and worth the drive) in the pouring rain. Let’s be generous and put 50% of the cost to
entertainment.
Then it’s back on the
road, heading east then south, through the Haast Pass to Wanaka. Lady P is
disappointed. The last time she was here (1973), the Hass Pass was also rained
in. But the scenery is
stunning, even through the clouds. Warms the heart of an old geography major.
Eventually into Albert Town on the outskirts of Wanaka in now warm sunshine. Our digs are a roomy town house in the upstairs BnB. All modern cons and ensuite. We settle in for a scratch tea and some stiff gins. Well, one of us does!
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