Wednesday 28 May 2025

Last night we went off in search of more of Flashy’s 2007 visit spots. His blog says he went to the Intercontinental Hotel. He remembers the night well. A long bar. Flights of wines and chocolates. A marriage proposal from a nervous bloke next to him to the cute server behind the bar. She said yes. The bar is now Casa Chi, a Peruvian bar/restaurant. The long bar is now short and curved. Luckily, the door chick assured him that 20 years ago it was a wine bar. So, we have revisited the right place. The Venezuelan server mixed a gin and tonic and a dry martini. Average. The Chinese lass sitting beside us ordered a Pisco Sour, which came with bubbles from a neat little bubble maker. We assumed it wasn’t dishwashing liquid!

Next stop was a revisit to Volare Italian Restaurant. Last time it was pretty special Chicago Italian. Flashy had Spaghetti Marinara then. The real stuff. No seafood, just tomato. This time, on arrival he spots the very table he had in the corner. Occupied. So off to the back.  Passing the kitchen, he notices a lot of Mexican cooks. Not so Italian this time.

The Linguini Aragosta – seafood with lobster was so smothered in tomato sauce it could have been Ligurian cuisine. Not too good. Lady P’s Beef Bragiole was mostly left on the plate. She helped Flashy finish his, though. A good bottle of Montalcino Rosso did help the dinner along. On the way out, we met the owner. He was here 20 years ago too.

This morning, we awoke to the sound of rain. A peek out the window and yes, the pedestrians had umbrellas and the cars windshield wipers were on. From our lofty 12th floor perch, this would indicate that our 10.00 am Greeter Walk would require raincoats at least.

Emerging onto the chilly street at 9.00 am, we discovered firstly, that the rain was quite light and secondly, there were no overhanging building eves. So, walk fast.

Breakfast was needed and we found a typical American diner called The Land and Lake. Such a wonderful institution. A long bar. A coffee mug for the bottomless filter coffee and good old sausage, eggs sunny side up and breakfast potatoes with toasted English muffin or toast. Cappuccino? No love, we’re old school here. You want creamer with your coffee? Flashy is starting to like filter coffee. Lady P had smashed avocado and goat’s cheese on sourdough with two eggs on top. Not so traditional but catering for the crowd, I suppose.

Now, our greeter, Richard (a retired eye surgeon) met us on the south side of the river at the Chicago Cultural Centre. The Grand Army of the Republic Hall, located within the Chicago Cultural Centre, is a neoclassical structure with Italian Renaissance elements. It's known for its two massive glass domes, one in each wing, and its exterior cladding of Bedford Blue limestone and granite. A stunning interior which must have cost a fortune. From there we wandered in and out of building foyers in an excellent 2.5 hour walking tour of the retail, commerce and hotel area, south of the river. Then back to our hotel watching the ambulances, fire trucks and police all rushing about with different sirens blaring. Oh, and it’s Wednesday. So, the bridges over the rive all come up to let tall masted boats through.

Almost back to the hotel and looking up – you do a lot of that in Chicago – Flashy sees a sign atop an old brick building which says “Inn of Chicago.” Could this be his old hotel? A closer inspection showed that it is now boarded up for renovation, but he can just see the old corner bar on the street front, where he had a couple of drinks. Now the brain cells connect. It is in fact his old hotel from 2007. Such a pity we can’t have a drink in the bar. Back in the room, he puts all the old landmarks into Google and blow me down - right, left three minutes and there’s the Intercontinental Hotel and Volare Restaurant. Left and right 5 minutes and there’s Joe’s Seafood Restaurant. A nice feeling.


Post Modernist steel and glass, Trump Tower
The dome inside the GAR building (Neoclassical)
Wrigley Building (Beaux Arts)

Volare Restaurant 18 years since we met, the owner and me. (Mid Century Classical)
Hotel Intercontinental Bar. (Still Going Strong)
Pisco Sour

Not so great seafood pasta at Volare

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