Saturday 8 November 2025

It's D-day minus two today (Sat) and we discovered that there is la Salon de Gastronomie on at the Cube convention centre this afternoon, just around the corner. Before that though, we headed into the Marche des Halles to have a seafood lunch and a wine or two at one of the stalls – la Cabane du Petit Charlot. Our last market visit.

This little retail outlet also has half a dozen tables and a stand up bar, where a selection of oysters, prawns, welts, smoked salmon and the like can be purchased along with Champagne and white wine by the glass. So, we did. Best seafood we’ve had on this trip. Half a dozen (should have had 12!) very fresh and cold oysters with a coupe of Champagne; beautiful smoked salmon and a pot of taramasalata and a chilled Chablis. Luckily Lady P had booked last week, as the place was full. 

Contemplating a palate cleanser on the way home, we were caught again by the 1.00 pm to 2.00 pm closure of many of the shops. We did manage to buy something small for the kids but decided that we could always have more Champagne at the Cube later. One of the world’s best eclairs just happened to take our fancy at the local patisserie close to home and we enjoyed this, feet up, with coffee and tea.

Then at around 5 pm, we walked the short distance to la Maison Du Boulanger, an exhibition space at the Cube. A very large hall with around 100 exhibitors. Artisan producers of meats, cheeses, wines, chocolates etc, mainly local but from as  far away as the Basque country and a number of wineries from Loire, Burgundy, Alsace and Bordeaux as well. Considering that the latter few are a long way away from Troyes, we decided that this annual fete was highly regarded by many producers.

Just inside the door was Domaine Champagne Rollin from south of Troyes (Cote des Bar). A coupe of their 2019 vintage, zero dosage Brut at 8€ was just the start we needed. Lady P takes a seat close by and notices a stall selling escargot. Well, a dozen hot little garlic and parsley snails went very well with the Champagne.

We wandered around with some sort of plan, discovering whisky and gin tastings, Alsace Riesling and Pinot Gris, smoked fillet du boef, yuzu chocolate and Basque cheese from a cheeky young tart. Then vigneron, Mm Amandine Collot, from Domaine Apronie at St Flavy (north west of Troyes), came to practice her English and give us gin and le Ratafia. The latter being alcohol made from her Champagne grape juice, mixed with Pinot Noir juice. Lady P suggested it would make a good spritz, mixed with Champagne. Amandine was so impressed she gave out her mobile and email and said she’d call it a “Penny.”

Another stall was selling oysters and smoked salmon. Here we had a delightful Chablis with a shared portion of glorious smoked salmon and the delightful company of the local Troyes radio station sales rep and her son and husband. She spoke very good English and was keen to know what we thought of the French government. Were they the laughingstock of the world? Flashy assured her that perhaps America held the number one spot at this stage. We got her card as well, with the promise that we must call her if we were ever back in Troyes.

After picking up some Basque ham and cheese; a small portion of chocolate; and having the best ever boule of nougat glace, we walked home to an early night.

Sunday is a day of cleaning and packing for an early morning departure to Troyes/Paris/Istanbul.



Amandine Collot, winemaker.
Nougat Glace.
Seafood at the market.



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